Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m) [P-56]

Overview

Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m) [P-56] [”Μεταμόρφωση Σωτήρος”] is the a small subsidiary peak below the massive South flank of Gerontovrachos (2,396m) [P-56] on Parnassos (2,455m) [P-1588] in Boeotia, Roumeli, Central Greece. While insignificant compared to the imposing 2,000m peaks of the massif, Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m) crowns a broad craggy slope, dominated by the Karstic processes of millennia of snowfall on limestone. It is the most accessible peak from the Michalis Defner Refuge (”Καταφύγιο Μ. Δέφνερ”) on Parnassos, and takes its name from the chapel nestled on its Western aspect.

Camping at Defner refuge below Gerontovrachos (2,396m).

Giona (2,510m) as seen from Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m).

The refuge does not take its name from Michail Defner (1848-1932) the linguist and philologist who dealt with the Tsakonian language spoken in Arkadia. Instead, it is named after his grandson, who was a skiing pioneer in the 1930s, and later enlisted in the army during World War II and led to the development of the Mountain Operations Unit (ΛΟΚ). The refuge was first constructed in 1932.

This peak was hiked as a chance objective as part of our practice and acclimatization trip to Parnassos in preparation for our attempt on Jbel Toubkal (4,167m) [P-3755] a few days later. We considered an ascent of Gerontovrachos (2,396m) [P-56] but spent long enough doing crampon practice that it became unreasonable. The next morning, before packing our tent, I walked, tea and cigarette in hand, the short distance to the true summit of Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m) [P-56].

Cramponage Practice & Acclimatization

Still recovering from a rather protracted cold, and awaiting our trip to Morocco some 48 hours after we pack up from Defner on the 10th, our options for Saturday were rather limited. Arriving during the mid-day heat, and with much to do we focused on getting accustomed to our new crampons. After sorting our gear by the refuge, we set off towards the derelict facilities of Athinaikos Ski Center, and hopefully towards the lingering snow-patches above.

M. Defner refuge and Gerontovrachos (2,396m).

Hiking along the old ski lifts.

The short trail and FSR leading away from the refuge and towards the Athinaikos Ski Center was well maintained and pleasant (T1), only the weight of our fully equipped packs were holding us up. Having warmed up slightly, we took a few minutes to explore the ski center, which we used to frequent now more than 20 years ago. Everything seemed somewhat frozen in time, lifts in place, snow-plows left to rot, old ski boots, and even old advertisements inside. From here on out, our route would tackle the steep ski-lifts, before making a wide leftwards traverse onto the NW ridge of Gerontovrachos (2,396m), and somewhere along the way we hoped would be suitable for crampon practice.

Gerontovrachos (2,396m) from the traverse.

NW Face of Gerontovrachos (2,396m).

The initial section following the leftmost T-bar lift although steep is rather straightforward and both well marked and obvious (T1+). At about 1,880m the trail begins the leftwards traverse which is significantly less steep, but requires some care as the terrain varies from dirt track to short rocky sections with a simple crux (T2-). The traverse continues up to 1,950m where the ridge is crested and then the route turns right, following the ridge to the summit; here the terrain steepness again and during our visit some snow required navigation. Another 15 minutes or so brought us further up the ridge and into a small doline which offered snow patches of various inclines where we stopped, had lunch, and spent a good hour or so practicing French crampon technique. Upon our return to Athinaikos we were met with a huge group of Yellow-billed Choughs (Pyrrhocorax graculus) as well as individual sightings of a Wood Lark (Lullula arborea), and Black Redstart (Phoenicurus ochruros).

The descent went by fast, and with the evening soon approaching, we decided to drive back to Livadi where we could eat some dinner before setting up camp under the twilight. After an extra drive to Arachova for some medical supplies, we made our way to Karaouli (⭐4.6 | +800) at Livadi, where a light two person meal with meat mains but no alcohol ran us nearly €80! We returned to Defner and set up camp at around 19:00, spending the rest of the evening relaxing.

Route

After a good nights sleep all considered, and waking up rather late at 07:30, the chance to make a quick solo ascent of Gerontovrachos (2,396m) was now long gone. Instead, I decided to explore the nearby ‘peak’ of Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m) which could be found 500m further up the FSR from the refuge. With a mug of tea in one hand, and a cigarette in the other I started off.

True summit of Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m).

Karstic doline near Metamorfosi Sotiros (1,836m).

It took no more than 10 minutes to follow the FSR onto the main summit area, and making a short detour to the right, I reached the small iconostasis and cairn marking the true summit (T1). The maps showcase a summit marker across the road on the left, so I went ahead to investigate. Running into a couple of hunters, out without guns, and enjoying a similarly relaxed morning as me, we spent some time chatting about the mountain with them mentioning the growing population of Wolves. Alas we had already had a rather quiet night at the refuge.

Gerontovrachos (2,396m) as seen from the access FSR.

After confirming that the rightmost summit was in fact the true one, I took a few minutes to enjoy the spectacular views of snowy Giona (2,510m) before walking back down the FSR to our car and campsite. By 09:00 we had packed up and were ready to drive back to Athens.

Petritis (1,923m) and Mbaintanis (2,205m) from Arachova.

Kouvelos (1,900m) as seen from the road at Zemeno.

On our drive back we passed through Arachova where we purchased some local goods (feta, bread, pasta etc.) before joining the main-roads for the next 2 hours of driving. On the way, we caught sporadic views of the large peripheral summits, such as Petritis (1,923m), Mbaintanis (2,205m), and the exceptional headwall of Kouvelos (1,900m).

Interactive Map

Logistics

Although an overnight camping trip, this ascent did not involve extensive logistical planning. We drove from Athens to Defner Refuge (📍Google Maps) in the morning, taking about 2:30 hours, and arriving there just before noon. After a few hours of organizing, hiking, and cramponage, we left Defner and drove to the pharmacy in Arachova and then to Livadi where we had dinner at Karaouli (⭐4.6 | +800); a rather regrettable decision given the steep price tag of €80. We returned to the refuge before sunset where we set up camp using our car tent, and relaxed before enjoying a very peaceful night at 1,820m. The next morning we had some tea, I did my small walk, and we then drove the return to Athens and were home by noon.

Nearby Peaks

The following is a list of significant nearby peaks.